Pattern Hack: Exposed Waistband Briefs

In this post I’ll discuss how to pattern hack my men’s briefs pattern into an exposed waistband. I was able to pick up some fun striped elastic in my final JoAnn visit which led me to modify the pattern, and I wanted to show you how to do the same. It’s super easy!

Step 1: Modify the Waistband Area on the Pattern

To modify the pattern, trim off 3/4” (about 2 cm) from the waist edges of the briefs rear and the pouch. We won’t need this extra fabric to create the covered waistband like in the original pattern.

3/4” trimmed from the top of the pattern

Step 2: Assemble the briefs (Minus waistband)

Next, cut and assemble the briefs just as you normally would EXCEPT for the waist elastic. You can find the video sewing tutorial on YouTube linked here.

sTEP 3: sELECT THE RIGHT wAISTBAND ELASTIC

For a professional finish, choose soft plush elastic between 1 to 2 inches wide (2.5 cm to 5 cm). I recommend 1.25-inch-wide elastic for men's briefs, but the exact width is flexible. Look for something comfortable against the skin and stylish—plain knit elastic also works! Using the length guide in your pattern, cut the waistband elastic accordingly.

sTEP 4: Sew the Waistband Elastic Loop

Sew your waistband elastic into a loop using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Then use a zig-zag stitch to sew down the raw edges flat.

Waistband elastic stitched into a loop

Close up of the raw edges of the waistband zig-zagged down flat

Step 5: Use the Quartering Method for Even Distribution

The waist elastic is a little smaller than the fabric, so you’ll need to use the quartering method to distribute the stretch around the waist. You need to find the quarter points of both the fabric opening and the elastic loop. Find the first point (the center front seam of the pouch for the fabric, the seam in the elastic for the waistband). Fold in half to mark the point on the opposite side of the loop with chalk. Then fold again to match the first point and chalk marking - the folds on each side will be quarter points three and four which you should mark with chalk.

Step 6: Attach the Elastic to the Briefs

Attach the elastic to the outside of the briefs, stitching in the round. You will match the raw edge of the waist fabric to the top edge of the elastic, but you will stitch near the bottom of the waistband using a zig-zag stitch, twin-needle, coverstitch, or other stretchy stitch. You will need to stretch the elastic while you stitch to make sure you are matching the quarter points of the elastic loop to the quarter points of the fabric opening. Stitch all the way around and overlap your stitching a little bit.

Where the match the fabric, and where to stitch the waistband to the fabric

Step 7: Trim Excess Fabric

Turn the briefs inside out and use a pair of tiny scissors to trim the fabric above the stitching you just made. Trim carefully so you don’t accidentally cut the elastic! It works best if you pull the fabric away from you while trimming you can cut close the stitching. The fabric above the stitching is waste.

Fabric trimmed from above the waist stitching

Final Look & Customization Options

And that’s it! Your exposed waistband briefs are ready to wear. This easy pattern hack lets you customize your underwear with different waistband elastic styles, opening up a world of design possibilities. I created a short video of this process which you can watch on YouTube here. Looking for some waistband elastic options? Click below to see a list of options I made on my Amazon storefront. (Link redirects to Amazon where I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.) Don’t have my men’s briefs underwear sewing pattern yet? Click the button below to get your instant PDF download!

Happy sewing! - Wes

Finished exposed waistband briefs