I Made underwear from a Vintage sewing Pattern

Recently, I tackled a unique sewing project: making a pair of men's briefs using a vintage sewing pattern from 1971. The big question—would they turn out saggy or sexy? Check out the video on YouTube here.

The Pattern: Sew Lovely M 36 C

I found this vintage pattern on Etsy a few years ago. It’s for a pair of men’s cotton knit briefs, designed by a brand called Sew Lovely, pattern number M 36 C. Unlike most patterns, which are printed on tissue paper, this one was printed on regular paper and had been folded away for decades. I gave it a good press with a dry iron to flatten out those deep vintage creases.

What intrigued (and concerned) me was that the entire pattern was just one piece. That’s usually a red flag when it comes to fit and shaping, especially for something as form-fitting as underwear.

Fabric Choices: Then vs. Now

In 1971, spandex fabrics weren’t widely available to home sewers. This pattern called for 100% cotton knit, but I opted for a bamboo rib knit with spandex for better recovery and comfort. I also sized down to compensate for the stretchier fabric. For the waistband, I used a classic striped underwear elastic to add a retro-modern twist.

Cutting and Prepping the Pattern

I cut the single pattern piece on the fold using a rotary cutter, then cut out the waistband elastic according to the chart. I realized the pattern also required a few binding strips (aka “tapes”) for the fly and decorative side stripes, which I made from white polyester ITY knit for a blue-and-white combo I really liked.

Fly Front Binding

The first sewing step was attaching the curved fly bindings. I used a method I’ve covered in more detail in this video, where the binding is folded twice to enclose all raw edges and topstitched with a zigzag. This creates a clean, professional-looking edge.

Assembling the Crotch Seam

Here’s where things got interesting: assembling the fly and crotch seams meant layering three pieces at once. When turned right side out, it worked surprisingly well—with no raw seams showing.

After that, I marked the lines for the pouch and stripes with tracing paper, then stitched a short line to secure each side of the pouch at the top near the waist. The white binding “tapes” were folded and stitched on using a narrow zigzag.

💡 Tip: I used wash-away seam tape to position the stripes without pins. It’s one of my favorite tools and a must-have in my sewing room. Check out my Amazon affiliate storefront here. (I earn a small commission on purchases at no extra cost to you.)

Attaching the Leg Bands

Instead of following the pattern’s instructions, which I didn’t like, I used my go-to method for attaching knit bands:

1. Measure the leg opening with a flexible ruler. (Amazon link here)

2. Multiply by 0.9 to get the band length (for stretch).

3. Add ½" to the number in step 2 for seam allowance.

4. Stitch into loops, quarter both the band and opening, and stitch while slightly stretching the band only.

This method works great for necklines, cuffs, and any knit openings where you want a snug, flat finish.

Finishing Touches: Waistband and Clean-Up

To attach the waistband, I:

• Formed a loop by stitching the short ends together at a ½" seam allowance, then zig zagged down flat the raw edges.

• Used the quartering method to evenly stretch and attach the waistband to the fabric.

• Used a three-step zigzag stitch to secure it.

I also chose to align the top edge of the briefs with the top edge of the elastic, slightly lowering the rise for a more modern fit.

Lastly, I trimmed the excess fabric carefully from the inside using sharp scissors—a nerve-wracking but satisfying final step.

The Verdict: Saggy or Sexy?

Let’s be honest: they’re not runway-ready underwear—but they’re surprisingly wearable! The fit is high-rise (grandpa-style, if we’re being real), but thanks to the stretchy fabric and adjusted sizing, they’re supportive, comfortable, and practical.

Would I wear them regularly? Yes.

Would they turn heads? Probably not.

But I see potential. I’d like to make more, maybe tweak the rise or experiment with different fabrics. Overall, this vintage pattern turned out to be a fun and educational make!

Try Sewing Your Own!

Whether you have this exact vintage pattern or something similar in your stash, I hope you’ve picked up some techniques and inspiration for sewing your own underwear. If you try it, let me know how it goes!